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Author Topic: NHRA Compliance & Battery Relocation into the Trunk  (Read 2890 times)

J dot Miller

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NHRA Compliance & Battery Relocation into the Trunk
« on: March 24, 2013, 07:58:21 PM »
First things first, NHRA rules should be considered as a basic guideline for safety;
  • Trunk mounted batteries must be separated by an aluminum or a steel partition in every instance, except when stored in a gas-tight NHRA approved box securely mounted, etc. I chose to line the backside of my rear seat with the aluminum, fastened to the sheet metal with heavy, short sheet metal screws the package. shelf also must have a sheet of alum. inserted under the dressuo stuff, as it isn't solid metal, and has speaker holes, etc... If I remember correctly, I used .032" aluminum, commonly found in speed/ chassis shops for various light weight interior components, dashes, etc, as well as tubbs for biiiig tires... Do not advise circumventing this as its a safety thing with established minimums, and you could be held responsible for injuries/ loss of life advising against it...
  • To my way of thinking, this is the best way to go.... use the UBS battery mount system, and its reasonably priced, inordinately strong, and NHRA techies cant budge the sucker...
  • My location, back passenger side corner is optimum as;
    A) The weight shift is maximized over the right rear which tends to break loose (Peel rubber), thus minimizing the wheel spin problem.
    B) You need to bolt that sucker DOWN with 4 Bolts (stout ones), and that's the best location for drilling four holes thru the bottom and sticking bolts thru on a Birdie/ Cougie.
    C) Much of the time, these cars operate with only a driver, or a lighter female in the passenger seat.... that weight shift tends to balance these cars better for everyday driving (on of MY reasons for doing so)...
  • The wire; battery cable as we know it is puny :censor: 'cause we don't have looong runs. guess what?This is a long run set up, so you need manly battery cable . Its called "welding Cable" 0 gauge, (zero gauge or even heavier) the :censor: that jegs or Scummit sells is waaaay too light. Also, you need to find the heavy crimp connectors, or bolt up kind I will not recommend any as I hadda search high and low to find what I needed... In the specialized tool kit of a heavy equipment power train mechanic, go figure... anyhow heavier is better... as for length, the weld cable ain't cheap, but its a pita to get 20 feet to work when you needed 24 feet in your install, so get 30 feet spend a few hard earned bucks and breathe easy, knowing your gonna have enough.
  • I built a wood and fiberglass box to cover the whole shebang. The reason is you need to protect those terminals from contact with metal pieces bouncing around in a trunk used frequently to store ':censor: of all descriptions' do not try to operate  without, or your courting a potential disaster.
  • NHRA requires a battery shut off switch between the positive terminal, and the cable run. for racing thats required to be mounted conspicuously outside the vehicle.... Well, hell my car is a streeter, so I have refused to drill holes in the thing, but I have put extra wire in that loop,so the switch "could be strung out the trunk lid for racing purposes if required, "but so far I haven't got any static from the techies on that issue at the track...


Heres my aluminum sheet for compliance with NHRA regs... notice the bead roll on alum sheet? Acky did that 'cause he can, and likes dinging around with sheet metal.



This is the battery box I used from price weight strength are tops:



   60-3000-A   battery tray 9-1/2" tall rails   $17.25*
   60-3010-A   battery tray 11" tall rails           $17.50
   60-3001-A   battery tray 9-1/2" short rails   $15.75
   60-3011-A   battery tray 11" short rails   $16.00
   * prices are based on 2005 numbers.  Adjust for inflation.

   Battery Box Features:
   
   Die formed steel, one piece box construction with radius reinforced, lightening holes and aluminum strap make this piece super tough and reduce weight.  Pivoting replaceable bolts and availability in two sizes make it perfect for almost every application.
   Available in 9 1/2" or 11" widths.

The new battery wire runs thru the wire chase to the front of the car... Drill a suitably large hole in the front edge of the wire chase and run battery cable thru.....It then is fished under rear edge of plastic fender liner, and up and over into the engine compartment note; the wire is shielded with a section of that rippled plastic shielding..............



This pic shows red power cable from battery to front of car, just before it enters wire chase under floor alongside the drivers door sill....



Here is a wire tie on the shielded wire, holding it up and in place by the brake hoses above it a lotta silicone is needed to seal/ protect the wire where it comes out the hole, and a ribber grommet is recommended for obvious reasons...



Hook up is actually quite simple remove the positive battery clamp bolt, and slip a bolt down tab for battery connections thats swaged to the  battery cable in between the tabs on the original battery clamp re-insert the bolt in all three segments, bolt down tight and wrap in a huge ball of tape >>> Cobbled up?  Yup, and then of course it does work... the original negative battery clamp/ wire is just removed and the short run welded bolt connection with negative ground works just dandy from the trunk...


I went ahead and ordered the lightweight Hawker Odyssey (medium),13 lbs, mil spec battery... that way i will have a lighter car in March for the final quarter mile runs... 



Here is the installed battery:



The battery box is made with Basswood, Epoxy, Fiberglass, and has a speaker inna top... It would take several chapters to explain how, why I did it my way, so to each his own, but should be wood as an insulator of sorts.... no sense dragging that out farther..... some guys may not do it, others may be way more elegant than me with that fabrication, or just use a plastic battery box (illegal for NHRA in and of itself, but OK with the other stuff) with the hold down inside bolted through...



OK, ran the sucker, everyday driving, 2 days, night and day, radio blaring, A/C on, normal goofing around....  seems as powerful if not more so than a standard sized, Big Assed battery I think I can Make it to the track with this little guy and get home again, no problem... thus endeth battery in trunk, 101!!!

by Leland Jachobson
The 5.4 swap has been called a bad idea, and considered an underpowered considerable waste of time, since 2007.

Nice to see that most donít think that anymore.
Bondfreak13 07/28/09 09:05 PM