Here are some pictures from a Friend of a Friend here.
This is his old set-up. He is in the process of totally restoring the car but in a fast pace...
We have been going back and forth in E-mails and I figured it would be dice to discuss some of these topics...
We have a 89 Super coupe we are attempting to restore to show quality. We have made a lot of progress is many areas but are looking for suggestion to redo and up grade the engine compartment. Currently the engine is disassemble and being bored and the headers tuned. We would like to upgrade the supercharger and achieve a highly polished and resistant coating. Does Jet-Hot fit the bill or do you have any other suggestions? I was concerned the jet hot process would not be available or even suitable for the supercharger, presently a powder coated housing. Thanks in advance for any light you may be able to cast onto the subject
THE EARLY SC 89-93 CAN BE PORTED TO GIVE BETTER HP. POWER COATING CAN BE DONE IF DISASSABLED LOOK IT UP
ALSO A 94-95 SC HAS 20 MORE HP DUE TO THE BIGGER OPENINGS AND THE ROTORS ARE COATED WITH TEFLON THE BACK OF THE SC IS RECTANGLE VS THE OVAL IN THE EARLY MODELSHOPE THIS HELPS ALSO THE WWW.SCCOA.COM SITE HAS VENTORS THE WILL UPGRADE THE OLDER TO NEWER SPECS USE SEARCH SITE ALSO
To have the absolute best engine, he needs to "ring" the heads/block to get a really blowout proof motor , cause tho the new MLS (multi layered steel) head gaskets solve the gasket failure prob on near stock engines, when you get into a high boost setup on that 3.8, you are in the twilight zone again from what I hear.
thing is you dont even hear about ''ringing'' an engine till you are around the pro crowd of racers..........It is apparently a hard thing to find a machinist that knows how.
always making me work.
Jet hot is typically used for exhaust headers. I looked up the Jet Hot process and I could not find anyone who has done that to a blower. The closest I found was the infamous GB who ceramic coated the intake and timing cover. Even GB said: "Everything that isn't ceramic coated is either powder coated, or factory (Vortech blower and intake tubes) or hand polished (alternator & TB) and coated with Zoop Seal." The clear is necessary on anything that you powder with chrome so it'll be somewhat chemical resistant...
Not saying that it can not be done but chrome can effect the rotor clearances and other tighten tolerances on the inside of the blower case.
I found this over the SCCoA:
With all the issues involved in getting it chromed, you may want to just consider having it polished.
Everything in the picture is chromed except the blower.
The polished aluminum is only a slightly different color than plated. It does take some work to keep it clean, but a coating of Zoops should take care of that.
If you plate, you definitely want to keep the plating out of all the interior surfaces. This could lead to the plating peeling at some future date around where all of the interior edges meet the exterior. This would be especially true of the bearing plate.
They worry about the heat of polishing distorting the case and other components, not any heat associated with the plating process. Someone that does not know what they are doing can easily spot heat up a case very unevenly and lead to a warped part. I had a brand new ďSĒ model polished. Magnuson would not warranty the blower until they inspected and reassembled the blower. They would not even send me the bearing plate to be polished. I had to mask off the polished parts of the blower and polish that part by hand once they had reassembled the blower.
Polishing and then clear powder should look fantastic. This one I did looks like clear anodized aluminum but I can live with it, now all I need to do is find the time to do the rest of the parts planned and then install 'em.
As far as disassembling the rotor pack, there's some tips/experience posted by j57ltr on the TBSCEC but I can't seem to find the post. He gives an example on how he pulled the rotors so they can be coated. It involves using a press and holdin' your mouth just right, if I run across the post I'll list the URL here.
Getting the rest of the blower apart is fairly easy...
**Links are obsolete**
Blower below was done in "chrome" powder and then in "clear" powder. The black parts are also powdered, they look "wet" in person.
I hope I helped???