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Author Topic: Heater Core Woes!!!  (Read 3533 times)

J dot Miller

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Heater Core Woes!!!
« on: March 31, 2007, 09:44:45 AM »
A leaky core is caused by several factors...  Aluminum is more vulnerable to electrolytic corrosion than copper or brass because aluminum is a highly reactive metal. When the corrosion inhibitors are used up and the pH of the coolant drops to 7 or below, aluminum becomes a sacrificial anode and is eaten away.

This same type of corrosion can also occur even when the coolant is in good condition if the engine does not have a good ground connection. Voltage from the charging system will flow through the coolant to ground, creating electrolysis corrosion that attacks the components in the cooling system. Checking your ground wire is a good thing.

I am of the opinion that the stock Ford grounding wiring is insufficient and should be upgraded to a higher gage wire size. My opinion is strengthened by Ford CYA TSB 01-15-6.  Or cars are getting old and the wire corrodes.  I replaced my Cougar engine ground with a Zero gauge welding wire seven years ago and have had no heater core issues...   O0

Checking the pH of the coolant with chemically-treated test strips can help you determine if the coolant is overdue for a change. The alkalinity of a typical antifreeze/water mixture will vary depending on the additives in the antifreeze and the ratio of ingredients, but is usually somewhere between 8 and 11. Higher is not always better, because some of the new long-life coolants have a pH of only 8.3.

Here are my recommendations:
1.Use deionized or distilled water for your radiator. Never use tap water (chlorine ions Cl- can destroy aluminum).
2.Check your ph (see my comments above)
3.Use antifreeze with an anti corrosive inhibitor.
4.Upgrade your engine ground wire. The TSB above has instructions on how to test grounding.
5. Since you are there I would install a 1 way ground wire on the core.  You can get them at Rad Cap Products
in Pacheco CA 94553, 925-689-0145!  Do not use a normal ground wire as it can draw current into the core.



Usually a heater core fails first because the stock heater core is not grounded and the radiator and the engine block are both grounded.  When the car was new this works fine.  Later, when the cars got a little older the ground wires corrode inside and do not hold as much current as a new wire.  So Ford made a make-shift TSB to solve the problem.  Basically they tell you to add grounds....

Why add grounds?  As radiator fluid gets old or tap water is used and the factory ground wires start to get old, the fluid can become a means of transportation for electrical current.. The ground pulls the current away from the surface of the metal.    :)

« Last Edit: April 02, 2007, 08:15:14 PM by J.Miller »
The 5.4 swap has been called a bad idea, and considered an underpowered considerable waste of time, since 2007.

Nice to see that most donít think that anymore.
Bondfreak13 07/28/09 09:05 PM

Jake

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Re: Heater Core Woes!!!
« Reply #1 on: April 01, 2007, 05:34:13 PM »
Uuuh, ummmm.... I think that linky no longer works??
'95 T-Bird 5.4L blower and sum stuff
13.6sec 1/4 mi, 300RW at 5250 RPM
GVW 4340 lbs, go figure!


 
http://www.soulcast.com/user/posts/70579       note; this is a new blogsite

J dot Miller

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Re: Heater Core Woes!!!
« Reply #2 on: April 01, 2007, 06:34:54 PM »
I just tested the TSB link and it worked..  ::)
The 5.4 swap has been called a bad idea, and considered an underpowered considerable waste of time, since 2007.

Nice to see that most donít think that anymore.
Bondfreak13 07/28/09 09:05 PM

Jake

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Re: Heater Core Woes!!!
« Reply #3 on: April 02, 2007, 07:50:53 PM »
I just tested the TSB link and it worked..  ::)

Naaah! the udder linky, da one fer da vun vay ground wires...... ;)
'95 T-Bird 5.4L blower and sum stuff
13.6sec 1/4 mi, 300RW at 5250 RPM
GVW 4340 lbs, go figure!


 
http://www.soulcast.com/user/posts/70579       note; this is a new blogsite

J dot Miller

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Re: Heater Core Woes!!!
« Reply #4 on: April 02, 2007, 08:16:12 PM »
Uuuup!  :(  Link changed to an address!   :P
The 5.4 swap has been called a bad idea, and considered an underpowered considerable waste of time, since 2007.

Nice to see that most donít think that anymore.
Bondfreak13 07/28/09 09:05 PM

KevSha

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Re: Heater Core Woes!!!
« Reply #5 on: December 14, 2007, 11:57:15 AM »
also, if you are going to be running your engine at high rpm on a semi consistant basis installing a flow restrictor in the inlet is not a bad idea, i used to blow them in my foxbody all the time until i put one in....i also got very good at swapping a heater core in a foxbody.
96 Thunderbird LX 3.8
170k
new head gaskets
daily driver

1990 Thunderbird Soupercoupe
103k miles
black on black

J dot Miller

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Re: Heater Core Woes!!!
« Reply #6 on: December 16, 2007, 08:43:41 AM »
Flow restrictor?  As far as I know they restrict the flow to a design flow rate.  Do you have specifications/ part number?  ???
The 5.4 swap has been called a bad idea, and considered an underpowered considerable waste of time, since 2007.

Nice to see that most donít think that anymore.
Bondfreak13 07/28/09 09:05 PM

FASTFREDDIE

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Re: Heater Core Woes!!!
« Reply #7 on: December 17, 2007, 12:26:19 PM »
THERE ALSO IS A PART THAT YOU INSTALL IN RAD O0  TO STOP THE ELC CURRENT AS WELL  ::)  ACTS LIKE A BOAT ZINK   ;D PULLS ALL ELC TO IT  :)   I MADE FLOW RESTRICTOR FOR SC   O0 TOOK THE TEMOSTANT AND REMOVED THE CENTER SPRING AND PLUG  PUT A S.S. WASHER WITH 5/8 - = 1/2 OPENING NEXT TO THE TEMOSTANT  8)  RUNS COOLER AND NO PROBLEMS  ;D  OLD RACE CAR TRICK FROM THE 50'S  ???
LETS GO CRUISING!!!!

KevSha

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Re: Heater Core Woes!!!
« Reply #8 on: December 17, 2007, 03:15:04 PM »
you can buy them from a dealer, if i still worked at one i could get the number, i bought it for my fox, as for a flow rate designed ino it note i said " high rpm" the  good old engineers designed them for everyday driving, if you take your car to the track as often as i did and ran it as hard as i did you will need one. its not too hard to make one, just make sure you are putting it on the inlet tube or else you will cause more problems than you will solve.

as :freddie: said the "zink" idea isn't bad either as it would get attacked first.
96 Thunderbird LX 3.8
170k
new head gaskets
daily driver

1990 Thunderbird Soupercoupe
103k miles
black on black