This is a cut and paste from another website. I'm trying to figure out why my damn car wants to shift into O/D with lockup before I'm rolling 20 mph. I've had two people try and say it was the torque converter. I don't see how, but I'm about to try a different one as a "just in case" measure.
I'll put all of the info I can from the other forum here. Maybe we can figure something out. If we don't, I'm planning on towing the car to the guy that put the trans together and have him help me out in person. Nothing like personal assistance!
Here it goes:
So this one is for those who need visual to troubleshoot. Check it out. I'm chasing down electrical gremlins currently to figure out why the car doesn't want to rev past 3k in manual 1st or 2k in manual 2nd. On top of that, I'm trying to figure out why my transmission absolutely will NOT shift the way it should. In the end of the vid, you can watch when I put it in drive. It doesn't seem like it even shifts, just goes into high gear right away. It's 15 megs and one minute long. The CEL is from a P0400 code, EGR Circuit Malfunction. Could be why I can't rev, but I'm not sure on that one yet. Let me know what you guys think.http://s3.photobucket.com/albums/y53/Grombola/?action=view¤t=100_0016-1.flv
For the (not so)complete info on the car.
95 Thunderbird LX 4.6L SOHC
2000 Crown Victoria 4R70W /w extra clutches and an 8 tooth output shaft
2004 Mercury Marauder TC
Just so you understand how important it is to me to figure out what's wrong, I actually cried because I haven't been able to fix it. I really need this ol' girl running.
just a 12 meg video of the car running, showing 30% load value, 20% throttle, and the RPM as it sits idleing in park. Language warning in this one.
I have a chip to account for the 8 tooth output shaft, and the gears. I also have a speedcal, as well as the proper speedo gear to give me an accurate reading. None of it made any difference. I used two different output shaft sensors, two different vehicle speed sensors, two tunes, two known good eec's, comepletely rewired EEC harness to make sure I had no broken wires anywhere. It's got me stumped! The craziest part is that it shows 30% load at idle, and 20% TPS. It's a new TPS.
The TPS is operated by a blade on the throttle shaft. The old sensor had a bad return spring in so it wouldn't return to 0%. The new one returns to 0%, but still reads 20% throttle. Even at 0% TPS the engine shows 27%-30% load....
It's on it's 2nd EEC, 1st one got fried. This current one is a reman, and so you know, I also tried a 3rd, known good EEC from a friend. It's either in the wiring, or the transmission. What I need to do is hook up some lights to the shift solenoid wires and see if they are being commanded to engage 2nd/3rd/4th, or if it's happening hydraulically. I should note that I can go WOT in manual 1st with the wheels in the air and get to redline, but it doesn't want to. If I actually drive it on the road and hold the throttle at one position, the car bucks around.
When in drive, and the vehicle is rolling, if I pull it down into manual 2nd or manual 1st, it holds whatever gear it was in while in drive and will not downshift until the car is completely stationary. It absolutely has no downshift, under any throttle conditions.
To put out a little more information that may be relevant, the car originally came with a 7 tooth output shaft. The trans in it has an 8 tooth output shaft. The OSS and VSS tell the EEC how fast it's moving. As I think I've said, I've tried two different sensors of each to no avail.
I appreciate all of your guys help. Hopefully between you and the few people I talk to outside of BC, we can get it figured out.
To any who may think they have something, but aren't sure, fire it at me anyways. Any little thing I could have overlooked. Anything at all is a step further than I'm at now.
I am open to just about any avenue of approach to diagnose and fix this thing. Just don't ask me to get a new car, as that option is out of the question Mine means too much to me And this is a recap I think
Alrighty, screw my previous post about PMing me for the nitty gritty, here it is, in all of it's glory.
183k 4.6L SOHC
Race built 4R70W out of a 2k Crown Vic with a modified valvebody plate, late model springs, 8 tooth output shaft, forced tailshaft lube, extra clutches, deep sump pan. The harness has been repinned to the factory spec of the 2k CV so that my EEC can communicate to the trans. I installed new gears at the time I put the transmission in, had a custom chip burned to account for the 8 tooth output shaft, and the new gears. I have tried two OSS's and two VSS's, as well as installed the appropriate gear combined with the speedcal to give my speedo accurate readings. The TC is from a 2004 Mercury Marauder which has been rebuilt by the same guy that did the transmission(transmissions are a side job, he specializes in TC's). I am using the old style MLPS as my car can not use the newer ones. I also have the appropriate EPC/SS/TFT/TCC solenoids.
I have since tried repositioning the MLPS, verified that the valve body is torqued to spec, installed new valve body gaskets, tried two pairs of SS's and one TCC solenoid. I have replaced the EEC with one reman, and also tested it with a known good EEC out of another car. A new TPS, which still reads 20% throttle at 0% throttle.
I read 30% load at idle in park. 3% rich on both banks, an EGR Flow malfunction(P0400), I have TC lockup in 3rd and 4th gear. When I attempt to drive, the car is attempting to go into high gear w/ lockup before it even reaches 20 mph on the speedo. The speedo gear and speed cal made absolutely no difference, nor did the tune, the different sensors, solenoids, etc. All wiring has been double/triple/quadruple checked in all area's that it is relevant. I have one EDIS in the mail to be here Wednesday to try and get an idea if that's part of my problem(rev thing), and I have one new one that I'm hopefully getting in about a week from now.
Manual 1st and manual 2nd work, but as in my earlier video, limit me on revs. No governor is in place, as I CAN get past the limit in manual 1st with the wheels off of the ground. I can not downshift into manual 2nd or 1st when shifting from D, nor do I have any form of "downshift" in D when I go WOT. It hold whatever gear it's in or upshifts. I can buy that I MAYBE pinched the EGR wires, but I can also buy that the EGR valve got crapped up when I had the bare manifolds there.
I have rewired the entire harness for the EEC, one wire at a time, to try and remove any potential breaks. No luck. I'm at a loss here guys. All I have to go off of is a couple things you can recommend. Otherwise, I'm stuck having to get the trans out, or towing the car to have the guy who built the thing look at it. I have an idea on one thing to test that I haven't yet, and that's to see if the computer is commanding the solenoids to turn on/off, or if it's somehow being done hydraulically.
That should be it. No lets get this damn thing fixed!