[mylittleblackbird]

We're up and running.  Got pulled over after being out of the garage for 15 minutes.  Expired tags.....  LOL!  Got off with a warning, so now I wait until monday....

[rjstat]

Well its good that you got the car straighten out.

[mylittleblackbird]

I'm glad it works    I'm just trying to hammer out one issue.  If I hook up my old EEC that doesn't work right anymore, I can fire the car and it idles just purrrrrrfectly.  If I hook up the reman, it'll idle for 20 to 25 seconds and die.  If I run the idle up to 1500 with my foot, every 20 to 25 seconds it loses 800 rpm for about 3 seconds then runs back to 1500.  I'm looking at getting another EEC, just need an H5T0 code....

[J dot Miller]

Only guessing at this point but it could be:

1. EEC.
2. Vacuum leak.
3. TCC solenoid - after all the troubles it may have worn out.  I doubt it.
4.  Short.
5.  IAC.
6.  Bad O2's.
7.  DPFE hoses are reversed/ damaged or the silicone EGR hose is melted or leaks.
 

[mylittleblackbird]

Only guessing at this point but it could be:

1. EEC.  -  Already know my thoughts on that.  Possibly relearning how to idle?
2. Vacuum leak.  -  Possible.  I thought I'd had that all checked, but will check again.  Doesn't hurt.
3. TCC solenoid - after all the troubles it may have worn out.  I doubt it.  -  I doubt it too.
4.  Short.  -  Doubt it as it's pretty much on a schedule.  Wiggling wires, etc, proved nothing.  Not impossible though.
5.  IAC.  -  I'm gonna beat it with a hammer a little and see if that fixes it.  I also considered that.
6.  Bad O2's.  They are only 183k old 
7.  DPFE hoses are reversed/ damaged or the silicone EGR hose is melted or leaks.  -  Also possible on the reversed part.  I'll try switching them.
 

[J dot Miller]

Possibly relearning how to idle?

Oh...  I forgot...  It usually takes a few weeks for mine to get back on tract after the battery was disconnected.  My car's idle will bounce up and down ever now and then but not all the time...

 

[J dot Miller]

I'm glad it works    I'm just trying to hammer out one issue.  If I hook up my old EEC that doesn't work right anymore, I can fire the car and it idles just purrrrrrfectly.  If I hook up the reman, it'll idle for 20 to 25 seconds and die.  If I run the idle up to 1500 with my foot, every 20 to 25 seconds it loses 800 rpm for about 3 seconds then runs back to 1500.  I'm looking at getting another EEC, just need an H5T0 code....

The best place to get an EEC is http://www.car-part.com/  search for engine computer 94 & 95.  Non-california 4.6L 94 or 95 EEC with an automatic should work as long as you are using a chip.  95 is preferred...  Look for following for your best match:

F4WF12A650BC LX V8-281ci 4.6L N/A FI W FEDERAL W/ F5SF-DA
F4WF12A650BD LX V8-281ci 4.6L N/A FI W FEDERAL W/ F5SF-DA
F4WF12A650BE LX V8-281ci 4.6L N/A FI W FEDERAL W/ F5SF-DA

[mylittleblackbird]

I'm going to try switching out the MAF and cleaning the IAC.  I just went and started it for the first time today, and it absolutely will not idle, unless I give it throttle.  If I have to, I'll switch back to the bad EEC just to get me around until I can get another one.  I have an e-mail out about an EEC from car-part now.  Thanks for the link, J!

[J dot Miller]

I'm going to try switching out the MAF and cleaning the IAC.  I just went and started it for the first time today, and it absolutely will not idle, unless I give it throttle.  If I have to, I'll switch back to the bad EEC just to get me around until I can get another one.  I have an e-mail out about an EEC from car-part now.  Thanks for the link, J!

If the IAC is dirty check the oil on your air filter.  Too much will gum it up.  Just a light film is all that is needed...  You can clean the MAF with rubbing alcohol and a q-tip.  Remove the sensor and be gentile...

You will need to call in for the EEC.  Most of those places are not up to the net??? 
  If possible find a local shop and arrange top pick it up.  That way you do not get a switch-a-roobie... 

[mylittleblackbird]

New IAC installed, and it just confirms what I have thought.  That EEC is .  I went back to the old stock one with the new IAC, and just like before, fires right up and idles.  New EEC doesn't even actuate the IAC.  I could cheat and bypass it, but I really don't feel like driving around on a substandard remanufactured piece of .  Just goes to show, nothing beats OEM when it comes to actually working....

[J dot Miller]

How about an update?
 

[mylittleblackbird]

All is well.  Having no problems cruising around, gouge it and she barks.  Makes a lot of noise, doesn't go fast, but I think that's because it's an undersized engine....   All bullshitting aside, I'm pretty damn happy.  I get to drive my car when I want.  I've put probably 1500 miles on it since I got it running.  I'm debating going to Cordova tonight.  I may go next week since it'd be a little more conveinent for me.  We'll see what happens.  Just need to work that blasted 95 intake over to get as much out of it as I can.  Figure I can tear into the intake ports while I have the intake off as well.  No harm done at this point.  I'd put PI heads on now, but I don't have the 4.6 PI intake manifold, and I don't know how well the 185kish bottom end would like the compression.  Plus I need to save the gaskets and bolts for the 5.4 swap.... though more power now wouldn't be looked down upon.

[mylittleblackbird]

http://s3.photobucket.com/albums/y53/Grombola/?action=view&current=100_0175.flv

[J dot Miller]

That is cool...  95 Intake I am soooo confused?  I thought you had a ported truck intake?  If you are determined to work with a 95 intake I have my old 5.4L version of a 95 t-bird intake sitting in my garage doing nothing...     Want it? 

I hear that trick flow may be making one???

[mylittleblackbird]

I'm still using the old worn out 4.6L.  The truck intake doesn't fit it, or I'd probably try using it.