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Author Topic: Snow boost cooler  (Read 2371 times)


  • Dirt Poor Hotrodder
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Snow boost cooler
« on: November 18, 2006, 10:35:50 PM »
                    Snow boost cooler
                                        (50/50 water, methanol injection)

In feb. 2005 I purchased a Snow basic kit to see about boosting the performance of my car.
A lotta info is available on the snow site; . This is a supplemental
report with my findings and experiences with this kit....
  First off, let me say tha basic kit and installation is dead nuts simple to execute. having said
that,I had most of it installed professionally, due to  my just not fiting into the fender well that I
determined was the appropriate spot for installing the pump... There isnt all that much in the
way of wire runs, but the use of butt connectors did cause some problems. 1st advice; solder
the connections, you will not regret this.
  There is a table with sizeing reccommendations for the
nozzle study that table a lot theres info there that you need to apply to get the right size nozzle
My final mindset said that the size should be a tad smaller than reccommended by the table,
not bigger. why, you say? well there is the concept of blow out with too much mix injected too
early which is offset by being able to activate the system at lower boost/ RPM... this is verry
important, as i wanted it on as the blower spooled up, and to stay on through the shifts, all
the way to  the top of my rpm band at wot in third or fourth gear if necessary. in other words ;
No on/off cycles during a run. The light, and a boost guage will tell you what is going on, and
the shift points can be determined by watching the tach.. these tweaks are effected by useing
the pressure switch  adjust, and changeing nozzles (the nozzle size came out perfect for me the
first time... Just lucky I guess)
The nozzle sizing table has some xtra info, and reading between the lines.. the table calls for
nozzle sizes that are specd for 60 lb pressure, and below that there are flow rates for the
nozzles  at 100 psi, and 200 psi, so youve gotta interpolate flow rate for the 140 lbs of pressure
supplied with the basic kit... this is important , to approximate time in boost you can sustain with
the volume of the resivoir considered... my 375 ml/min at 140 lbs pressure will run out of mix after
4 minutes tops , so figure 15 sec runs, , I should be good for about 16 1/4 mile full-tilt-boogie runs 
with a tiny resetve, cause I run 13's,  but Check after 6 or 7 runs juuuuust to be safe .....2nd advice;
calculate your flow and be sure you do not run out when in boost with any decent power tune, as
you will immediately loose octane and also lean way out with way too much advance, thus
detonating and blowing up/frying your engine, 'both in one fell swoop', as the literary pundits would
say.I would call that really bad mojo... just know what youre doing and think / read about it first.
  3rd advice; use the kit without useing a new tune for a while , as tho it will be pig rich, you
should see a slight increase with your butt-o-meter, and some small increase in boost as the
140psi, 120 0ctane, 100 proof  mix is jetted into the hotter boosted  air from the blower.
You'll also notice the absence of as much increase in  temperature when useing boost, as its
more effective than a good intercooler . These things will become evident IF you are set up right
with the basic kit. you may also notice a slight increase in mileage, and even cooler operating
temps as the methanol/ water mix apparently cleans the carbobn residue out of combustion
chambers, further eliminating detonation..... neat, huh?
The next caveat is about the nozzle assembly.... you can really screw up here. The instructions
tell you to seal this and that and arent really clear about what needs "permanent " thread locker.
anyhow its the nozzle where it screws onto the nozzle holder thats critical.
you see , improperly secured, it can and will come loose, and will be swallowed by the engine.
Looseing that allows The 'coup de grace', a  the slug of water
mix that will be a solid stream at 140 PSI  which is guaranteed to give you a hydrolock and totally
destroy the remainder of your engine. Now, doesnt that sound like fun? It's one thing I feel they
should have been more clear about in the instructions.. 4th advice; secure with hi strength, and run
it for a discreet interval while tweaking.At this point, and before Dynoing for final tune, It would be
a good Idea to remove the nozzle assy , and  put back together with hi strength lock tight, really
tight, and do a little damage to those threads to really permanently secure that nozzle forever....
Any changes later on , buy the whole shooting match all over, its not that expensive.
What I did is drill the holder with a small drill, and use a nailset to flatten the threads of the nozzle
after screwing it in tight with hi strength locktite. Any changes, I'll buy a whole new assy......
  The trip to Ramseys was an anti climax;..... I am not sure wether the chip ate the computer, or
 the computer ate the chip but there was smoke , there was fire, and both were gone .... hadda
rent a car, make a 119 mi trip to get my spare box at home, they reburned anudder chip , and I
was up and running. the gains were less than spectacular, and we picked up 11RWHP.. and about
the same amt of tork.... this with 23 degrees advance, and leaned out to 12.3 or so AFR... could
she stand more timing? a leaner AFR? i supopose it might, but this is a sane  setup, and neither I,
nor dennis Ramsey wanted to go any farther with it... Thats sometimes called 'sanity' I still have
a great running basic tune with , or without the snow running, and a tad more with the snow and
secondary  tune, so less than hoped for, but not really upset with the results, even tho its back to
the drawing boards;
'95 T-Bird 5.4L blower and sum stuff
13.6sec 1/4 mi, 300RW at 5250 RPM
GVW 4340 lbs, go figure!       note; this is a new blogsite