+ O2 Sensors.........

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O2 Sensors.........

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 I then removed his o2 sensors and did the :larry: method to clean them an it worked I was sure that it was going to bed the IAC but he was dumping so much gas into bank 1 he was not get a complete burn

Haw!! It worked ! .... The "old guy" has picked up a few tricks not in the books along the way, Huh? You can tell your nephew that it may be good for up to maybe 20,000 mi. but may not work the next time. Glad it worked out this time............

Ya he is a bus mechanic for greyhound and when he saw how I was going to clean the o2 sensors he thought I was crazy I did tell him it was a temporary fix he was going to get the OEM sensors

Gold Cougar:
Hey guys,
I know its a bit late on this, but I wanted to follow up with something I found about o2 sensors.  If you are going to take them out, here is an easy way to test them.  They can be tested while in the car, but not as easy if out of the car.
from: http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/ecmsensors/O2sensors.html

"Testing O2 sensors on the workbench.

Use a high impedance DC voltmeter as above. Clamp the sensor in a vice, or use a plier or vice-grip to hold it. Clamp your negative voltmeter lead to the case, and the positive to the output wire. Use a propane torch set to high and the inner blue flame tip to heat the fluted or perforated area of the sensor. You should see a DC voltage of at least 0.6 within 20 seconds. If not, most likely cause is open circuit internally or lead fouling. If OK so far, remove from flame. You should see a drop to under 0.1 volt within 4 seconds. If not likely silicone fouled. If still OK, heat for two full minutes and watch for drops in voltage. Sometimes, the internal connections will open up under heat. This is the same a loose wire and is a failure. If the sensor is OK at this point, and will switch from high to low quickly as you move the flame, the sensor is good. Bear in mind that good or bad is relative, with port fuel injection needing faster information than carbureted systems.

ANY O2 sensor that will generate 0.9 volts or more when heated, show 0.1 volts or less within one second of flame removal, AND pass the two minute heat test is good regardless of age. When replacing a sensor, don't miss the opportunity to use the test above on the replacement. This will calibrate your evaluation skills and save you money in the future. There is almost always *no* benefit in replacing an oxygen sensor that will pass the test in the first line of this paragraph."

Thanks again :jake: for the write up.

J dot Miller:
Tanks for the info.  Good stuff...  Did :jake: admit what caused his bad O2's yet.  Humm...  I think it was a hose disconnected at his vacuum canister purge? :-[

Ok so what is so good about a Ford dealer O2 vs. a Bosch O2?  I have been using Bosch in my cars for years. 
I ask as I need to replace my two front sensors very soon.


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