[FASTFREDDIE]

 AS THE NEW ;DCARCRAFT MAG  ::)FEB PAGE 57 THE WARNING ABOUT OIL ADDTIVES BEING REMOVED    MOST 15 -40 WT OIL WILL STILL HAVE THE ZINK PHOSPHATE IN IT  CASTROL TECTION, CHEVRON DELO 400, MOBIL DELVAC 1300, SHELL ROTELLA T { MY CHOICE } QUAKER STATE Q RACING 0-5 15-50 17.5-35,  JOE GIBBS RACING MICOzOL 0-20 10-30,  ALSO MOST OIL WITHOUT THE SUNBURST ON THE FRONT WHICH IS ABOUT THE SIZE OF A QUARTER    THOSE WITH OUT ROLLER CAMS WILL HAVE A RAPID WEAR RATE  SO BE WARNED

[J dot Miller]

Good stuff.....  If you send me the article I will scan it in for you??? 

[FASTFREDDIE]

SOUNDS GOOD 

[FASTFREDDIE]

MORE STUFF  FROM THE SCCOA:   

Ive been doing some research on the subject of good oil, bad oil.  I thought id post this here. Maybe its good info, maybe is bs.  This was a email I recieved from a engine builder. Everyone has there own opinion.
Anyone have any input?

  What the flat tappet, older FORD engine design require a good Zinc and Phosphorus (ZDDP) anti wear mixtue which will coat the engine and help it from wearing.
The flat tappet engine need an engine oil with at least 1200 ppm of Zinc and 1200 ppm Phosphorus or more".

Here a list of engine oil to chose from.
http://www.lnengineering.com/Oilresults.pdf

 The reason I started looking into it was because of the excessive wear on my Harland Sharp rockers. The roller was wearing into the body on all but 2 of the rocker and the 2 that looked ok had the starts of the same issue. Also the REP for HS addressed the problems with the newer blend of oils in the older engines.

Doug

Gee, I hate to blatantly disagree with you, but that is totally incorrect. Evaporative as well as operational additive depletion, soot and silca contamination and fuel dilution are all culprits in reducing the effectiveness of a motor oil's ability to reduce wear on any engine.
While it is true that the measurable rate of wear-and-tear does diminsh after an engine is fully broken in, that is not a measurement of the oil's ability to reduce wear-and-tear. It is simply the mechanisim of the engine acquiring and maintaining 'equilibrium', which is measured on a sliding scale. It ramps up pretty quickly for the first 10,000 miles or so, then levels off to near zero. As the wear-and-tear accumulates, the slope starts to taper off, ever more aggresively as the mileage increases.
 Eventually, the drop-off is near vertical, representing complete engine failure.
Keeping the engine in equilibrium is the function and goal of the oil. Dirty, contaminated oil increases the rate of drop.
  I spent much time at the Texaco Additive Research Facility in the Catskills studying just this matter. Many vehicles were run on computerized dyno's for many thousands of miles and meticulous measurements and readiings were taken at like-intervals for each vehicle. The results were universaly the same:
After a fresh oil change, and at operating temperature, the highest rate of volatilty-induced oil level reduction (burn-off) takes place during the first (approximately) 500 miles, then tapers off to near zero (in a healthy, well-tuned engine). Including a top-off at this point, the maximum amount of engine protection is provided at this point.
As the oil accumulates contaminants and degrades, wear increases.

The real issue that most people don't comprehend is that motor oil has several vastly different duties to perform in any engine. Each one of those abilities diminishes and eventually ceases at differing rates, all depending on the variations in driving style, engine condition, etc... 
While some functions of the oil may be perfectly acceptable, other functions may be totally depleted at any given point.
In a perfect world, we would want to change our oil as soon as the first function nears expiration. This would lead to wasting the other functions of the oil by changing it out at that point, but that is the only was to get the maximum protection of the oil.
In reality, however, manufacturers and consumers tend to promote the idea to use every last bit of the oil's ability before gettig rid of it. While some functions may have theoreticllay expired only a few miles before changing it, other functions could have been non-existant for many thousands of muiles already.
This is the primary cause of rapid post-equilibrium wear.

It is better (in my opinion) to throw away a little good oil to make the engine last longer, than to throw away a little good engine to make the oil last longer. The oil is the disposable part of the equation, after all.

Whenever I find myself on my stupid soap-box like this, I just remember what an old instructor told me:
  "Spend less time talking about oil, and more time changing it and your engine will last longer!"

 

[FASTFREDDIE]

CHECK OIL POST AT SCCOA AS IT IS UPDATED 

[J dot Miller]

Well...  Most humans can not read that part of the BBS.  Is this what you mean?

SAY IT HAS LONG MILEAGE OIL :rolleyes: UP TO 15000 MILES :confused:  BTW ROYAL PURPLE SAYS ALSO THAT IT IS A LONG MILEAGE OIL AS WELL:eek:   I WAS TOLD AS LONG AS THE OIL IS FILTERED AND DOES NOT GET AICDS OR MOISTURE AND NOT OVER HEATED IT SHOULD BE GOOD FOREVER:confused: IF THE OIL COMPANIES WERE JUST TRYING TO MAKE MONEY BY HAVING SO MANY DRAINING 3 TIMES A YEAR AS SOME USED TO SAY:mad:  JUST MY TC:D

Well, the only way for those conditions to be met is never to take the oil out of the bottle.
 No acids or moisture? Can't be stopped: natural by-product of combustion.
Not overheated? Even if not overheated, oil is heated every time it is used which eventually leads to severe oxidation issues.
  Whoever gave you that little tid-bit of info is sadly misinformed.

[FASTFREDDIE]

THIS TREAD MAY NEVER DIE 

[J dot Miller]

MORE STUFF...

SAY IT HAS LONG MILEAGE OIL :rolleyes: UP TO 15000 MILES :confused:  BTW ROYAL PURPLE SAYS ALSO THAT IT IS A LONG MILEAGE OIL AS WELL:eek:   I WAS TOLD AS LONG AS THE OIL IS FILTERED AND DOES NOT GET AICDS OR MOISTURE AND NOT OVER HEATED IT SHOULD BE GOOD FOREVER:confused: IF THE OIL COMPANIES WERE JUST TRYING TO MAKE MONEY BY HAVING SO MANY DRAINING 3 TIMES A YEAR AS SOME USED TO SAY:mad:  JUST MY TC:D

There are many things which affect oil change interval much more than mileage.  If an engine is running clean with a good tune and the rings are in good shape then it can go a long time between oil changes.  The oil itself doesn't wear out, but what happens is it becomes contaminated.  So the question is, how much does your SC contaminate it's oil?   How is your tune?  How are your O2 sensors?  How are your rings?  How about your valve guides?  What about your headgaskets? 

And we haven't even started to talk about the effects of detonation on your bearings..... detonation is the #1 killer of rod bearings in an SC.  That fact leads us to the next question.  What clearances do you have in your motor?  And what weight of oil is needed to properly float a bearing at the clearances you are running?  If your bearings have copper showing (they do) then what is your margin of safety?  All good questions, no?

He he... 

[rjstat]

Want some infor on oil check this site out http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/index.html